Robert Yellin had suggested that we visit the Sagawa Museum.
He said they have an incredible display of Raku. The museum is not located in
Kyoto but in Moriyama in another prefecture. We decided to go. Getting there
was fun for we had to negotiate the JR Train system and figure out the correct
train to get us there.
The museum is very modern and is surrounded by water. There are
several different aspects to the museum but we were only interested in going to
the Raku Exhibit. The museum is below ground level under the pool, light flows
into the museum thru the water. Every aspect has been thought through. This is
Japanese elegance distilled to its essence. Very few people were in the
galleries. We essentially had the museum to ourselves. Actually there are very
few Raku pots on display, maybe 20. They are lit perfectly in very dim light.
It forces you to really concentrate on the objects. In addition there are
beautiful textiles that are displayed. Perhaps they are showing no more than 10
or 15. By just highlighting a few items in a perfect setting the impact is
breathtaking. We loved the experience and highly recommend the Raku Museum.
Thanks Robert, or we never would have ventured to this museum. After lunch at
the museum (Noodles with whole fish, it was great), we trained back to Kyoto
and returned yet again to the Some Museum only to discover it is closed between
shows. It was worth the taxi ride there, for Cathy spotted a great clothing
store nearby.
We decided to have Tempura again. After our very expensive
experience in Tokyo, I am happy to report we had a more satisfying Tempura
Dinner in Kyoto. Yoshikawa Tempura Inn is a small ryokan hotel. It looks
hundreds of years old, but since it is made of wood, I am sure it isn’t. It is
charming, with old lanterns, sliding doors, a great koi pond, and fantastic
tempura. They only seat 10 guests, and course after course is made in front of
you. The chef speaks almost no English, so you can’t really chat with him. I
consider it a victory if I can figure out the correct sauce to use. Some
Tempura gets dipped in salt, others in lemon juice, others in a sauce. It was
all great. For dessert they have you move from the Tempura Room to a separate
room in the Inn. The night was cool and it was perfect being inside of this old
building.
1 comment:
I will put the Raku Museum on my list of must visits next time I'm in Japan.
- Courtney
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